SUPPLY & FIT · DUNFERMLINE & FIFE

CARE GUIDE

Real timber underfoot: what daily and seasonal care looks like

Engineered oak is real wood, and real wood moves with the seasons, reacts to moisture, and needs cleaning products matched to its finish. Get the basics right and it's a floor that can be refreshed rather than replaced for decades.

NEVER USE
Steam mops, excess water, or generic all-purpose floor cleaners
DO THIS WEEKLY
Dry sweep or vacuum with a hard-floor head to lift grit
WATCH FOR
Seasonal gaps between boards as humidity drops in winter — usually normal
REPAIRABILITY
Lacquered floors can be sanded and refinished; solid oak more times than engineered

Match the cleaner to the finish

Lacquered oak has a sealed surface film, so it can handle a slightly damp (not wet) mop with a wood-specific cleaner. Oiled oak has no film — the oil is absorbed into the wood — so water sits on the surface rather than beading off, and it needs a dry or barely-damp cloth plus periodic re-oiling rather than mopping with liquid cleaner. Using an oiled-floor routine on lacquer, or vice versa, either leaves residue or lets moisture in where it shouldn't go.

Humidity swings are normal, not a fault

Timber expands slightly in humid summer months and contracts as central heating dries the air out in winter, which can open small gaps between boards. This is completely normal seasonal movement in real wood and typically closes back up by spring. Keeping indoor humidity reasonably stable, where practical, reduces how noticeable the movement is.

Routine care

  • Sweep or vacuum with a hard-floor setting to remove grit before it's ground in underfoot
  • Use only the cleaning product recommended for your specific finish — lacquer or oil
  • Wipe spills immediately, especially on oiled floors where moisture isn't sealed out
  • Use felt pads under furniture and an entrance mat to trap grit at the door
  • Re-oil oiled floors periodically as traffic wears the surface oil thin

What maintenance won't reverse

Deep water damage from a long-standing spill or a leak — cupping, blackening, or swelling at board edges — usually needs professional assessment and sometimes board replacement, not just cleaning. Engineered oak also has a finite veneer thickness, meaning it can be sanded and refinished fewer times over its life than solid oak, so heavy scratching that goes through the lacquer is worth addressing sooner rather than sanding repeatedly.

Fife factor: stoves, underfloor heating and coastal humidity

Wood-burning stoves in rural Fife cottages dry the air significantly in the room they heat, which can pull more moisture from timber than a standard radiator does — a bit of extra vigilance on gaps is normal there. Newer Duloch homes with underfloor heating need engineered oak specified and installed with that heat source in mind, plus a gradual warm-up when the heating's first switched on each season to avoid stressing the boards. Coastal humidity around Aberdour and Burntisland runs higher, which can slightly swell timber in damp spells — good ventilation in these properties helps the floor settle back down faster.

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