The click LVT fitting sequence
- Subfloor checked for flatness and swept clean
- Underlay rolled out, taped at joins if required
- First row laid against the longest, straightest wall
- Subsequent rows clicked in with staggered end joints
- Cuts made around pipes, door frames and awkward corners
- Spacers removed once the last row is in and skirting refitted
Where rushed click LVT fitting fails
Leaving no expansion gap is the classic mistake — LVT moves slightly with temperature, and a floor fitted tight to the walls can peak or bow at the joints within a hot summer. Fitting over a subfloor with debris or an old adhesive residue left behind also stops the boards clicking together flush.
Getting the room ready
Rooms need to be cleared of furniture rather than just pushed aside, since the flooring goes down as a continuous floating sheet and we need to work across the full width. Doors are usually trimmed slightly at the base to clear the new floor height, so keep pets away from the doorway while that's being done.
Click LVT on new-build chipboard decking
New-build developments around Duloch and Halbeath are typically laid on tongue-and-groove chipboard deck rather than screed, and we check the boards are securely screwed with no springy panels before floating LVT over the top, as movement in the deck will eventually show at the click joints.
Where click LVT suits and where it doesn't
- Good for living rooms, bedrooms and hallways
- Not recommended tight against wet-room floor drains
- Suitable over most existing hard subfloors with prep
- Not ideal directly over uneven old ceramic tile without a levelling pass